What type / manufacturer of paint do you use?
We are not signatory to a particular manufacturer of paint products. We find, through experience, that different manufacturer's produce products that are best for a particular surface. We are constantly identifying new and better products and pass that information along to our customers. Paints vary greatly in regards to the type of finish they provide, the expected life-span, durability against weather, and material warranty that they provide. We calculate what is the best product for the surface and recommend that with each of our detailed quotes. We typically use paints, stains, and lacquers from the following manufacturer's; Dunn-Edwards, Sherwin Williams, PPG, Valspar, Cabot, Rustoleum, and Old Masters.
Are you insured? Do you have references?
Yes and yes. We are a fully licensed, bonded, and insured company. By insured, we mean that we provide general liability, auto coverage, and worker's compensation for all our employees. References are included with every quote and are updated frequently. We also recommend and encourage visiting our past projects to really get an understanding of the quality of work and service that we provide.
What application type is better, spray or brush/roll?
The best application method changes greatly depending upon the surface you are applying it to, the condition the surface is in, and what type of finish the customer is wanting to achieve. For new fine finish application types (such as interior wood trim, doors, and cabinets), a spray application is usually the preferred method as it does not leave any trace of brush or roller markings on the surface. This can change however, depending upon the customer... For example, if large pets are in the home, it would not make sense to spray doors as it is difficult to touch-up spray work later on. In this scenario, it would make more sense to brush and roll the surface. Our typical application method for exterior surfaces is spray and backroll. This type of application allows for proper paint coverage and proper adhesion. The same application method is used for interior ceilings.
Is priming necessary?
Priming is usually necessary for a variety of reasons. The first reason is proper adhesion... Making sure that the primer / paint "sticks" to the surface is objective #1. The example that is most commonly seen in Santa Barbara and Ventura is a water-based paint being placed directly over an existing oil product. This incident can be discovered quickly by scratching at the surface with your fingernail. If the top layer of paint pulls away easily from a second layer of paint, a primer was not used. In this scenario, an oil-based primer needed to be placed over the oil-based paint, thus allowing the primer to stick to the oil and then allowing the water-based paint to stick to the primer. The second reason is proper coverage (or stain hiding)... The last thing that you want, as a customer, is to discover that your existing water-stain is telescoping through your new paint job. Most primers have stain-blocking additives which terminate the existing stain and will not allow it to telescope. The third most common reason is color strength... Primers help resist against sun fade and soaking of color pigments from raw material.
Do you mainting a clean jobsite?
Yes. A dirty jobsite never leads to a successful project. Keeping things clean and organized remains a top priority for us.
What are the different paint sheens and where should they be used?
Different manufacturer's produce different types of sheens (or at least call them by different names). The best way to explain what sheen can do or not do is the following... The "flater" the sheen, the more porous the surface is. The "shinier" the sheen, the more smooth the surface is. This is why it is difficult to clean a wall which is painted in a flat sheen. The marking on the wall has gone into the pours of the paint thus it cannot be reached with a wash cloth and cleaning solution. The type of sheen which we recommend depends on the customer's personal objectives involving the finish product. The typical sheens are: Flat / Matte, Velvet, Eggshell, Satin, Lo-Sheen, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss.
What type of preparation work do you do?
Different preparation steps are required for each individual and different surface. This is why we break-down our quotes to each of material (walls, ceilings, doors, cabinets, stucco, etc.). Each one of these surfaces requires a different amount of preparation and different sequences in which the preparation work should be completed. These steps are explained in detail within the quote and are discussed throughout the consultation process. The most common types of preparation are: removal of loose and flaking materials, sanding, scraping, stucco patching, wood patching, caulking, glazing, drywall patching, re-texturing, wood filler, and priming.
What do I need to do to prepare for painting work?
In short, nothing... We take care of all heavy lifting and protection of adjacent surfaces. We also will remove window coverings (and re-install), bathroom accessories, or light fixtures as needed. The only thing that we typically ask customers' to do prior to our arrival, is to move and store any "break-able" items or hierlooms. If there are other questions surrounding this work, please let us know and we will walk you through exacty what should be done.
Does your quote change once the project has started?
The quote will never change from what we originally presented in the customized proposal. The only thing that would increase cost would be an "add request" from the customer... Such as, "Can you please refinish the metal gates along with the exterior work that you have already been doing?"